The Courier: 2016- A Fashion Round-up

notonthehighstreet.com

This Article was originally published in The Courier.

As it draws to a close 2016 for many, will be a year to be forgotten. David Bowie's untimely death in January seemed to set the precedent for a year of the unexpected and the downright depressing. The world of fashion has however marched on regardless, donning crocs on its way no less (the ultimate unexpected). 

In the centenary year of British Vogue we were gifted with a rare peek behind those hallowed Condé Naste doors and, in her first book, the usually private Schulman bared all. It wasn't just a year of firsts for the British edition however, Kendall Jenner and Lily Rose Depp debuted on the magazine's French and American covers both cementing their supermodel status with preceding Calvin Klein and Chanel campaigns retrospectively. Despite multiple hugely successful covers (The British June issue was the best selling of all time) Vogue has continued to court controversy, waging war first on bloggers, and more recently on cleavage- the condemnation of boobs and bloggers has led many to question whether 100 years on, Vogue's finger slipped from the pulse. 

"the 90s revival reigned on; seeing the slip dress slink its way into our wardrobes'

In regards to trends, the 90s revival reigned on; seeing the slip dress slink its way into our wardrobes, the high street once again proved that imitation is the highest form of flattery, with Topshop and Primark alike churned out variants of the 90s staple. Vetements and FCUK also ensured that the logo t shirt came back in a big way, both selling out of their new lines of cult T-shirts in hours. And although it's unlikely many Newcastle students will have bagged one, it was a trend we fully got on board with. Calvin Klein and Adidas logo tees took the Toon in en masse, flooding the floors of the Robbo and Digi with a sea of vintage labels that wouldn't look out of place paired with some socks and sandals on your dad .

Perhaps less suprising was that the great body debate raged on with as much furore as ever; whilst there did seem to be some progress made towards a more body positive and inclusive industry, including Vogue's first ever 'real' women issue' (does this mean all models up until this point have been fake women? is Kate Moss actually a robot? the questions are endless). On closer inspection however, progress was perhaps less than we would have liked. Gigi Hadid and Cara Delvigne were both caught up in media storms after allegations they had been turned down for certain shows for being too 'fat' or 'bloated', and there has been a somewhat worrying emergence of a corset trend, facilitated by Prada and Balmain and endorsed by the likes of the Kardashian Klan.

"Even the saviest of fashion forecasters would have struggled to predict 2016 would be the year of the croc, let alone the year of the brightly colour pantsuit"

I'm quite sure that even the saviest of fashion forecasters would have struggled to predict 2016 would be the year of the croc, let alone the year of the brightly coloured pantsuit, 2016 seems to have passed us in a flash of fashion weeks and controversies. Looking to the future I am in no doubt that many surprises await us in 2017, perhaps this time next year we will all be donning the darkest shade of st Tropez a la Trump?…or not.

The Courier Fashion Section Lay-ups October 2016

October's The Courier Fashion pages, edited and compiled by myself and my fellow fashion editors, Liz Rosling and Zofia Zwieglinska.

 October 17th 2016

 October 24th 2016

October 31st 2016

A Cardiologist's Response to The World's Strongest Coffee

This article originally appeared on womenshealthmag.com

 Between 6am HIIT, keeping up with Instagram and daylight saving throwing your body clock out the news of AssKicker coffee probably sounds great, but according to a cardiologist, think before you drink. 

AssKicker coffee, that's reported to contain more caffeine than 80 espresso shots (equivalent to 65 cans of red bull or 5000mg of caffeine), can keep you awake for three days. But herein lies the problem. 

Dr Aseem Malhotra, an eminent London based cardiologist, explains that ‘anything that is going to interfere with your ability to sleep is damaging. Sleep is extremely important to health, especially to your heart’s health’.

This revelation backs up the argument that sleep is one of the most important links in the health chain (DYK that a lack of sleep messes with your gut and can cause weight gain?).

So, how much coffee should you be drinking?

‘I would say no more than 5 cups of coffee a day, it varies between people though,' says Malhotra. 'If there are things going on in your life that are making you stressed or anxious then caffeine can make those problems seem much worse’.

Furthermore, in a study at the Walter Reed Army Institute of Research scientists found that after of three nights of restricted sleep caffeine did zilch to boost alertness. 

Thankfully getting your hands on a cup of AK coffee would be hard - it's the brainchild of Viscous Coffee, Adelaide - unless you're planning a healthy holiday.

26 Ways to Invest in Yourself This Month

This article originally appeared on Womanshealthmag.com

Don't feel SAD about the end of summer, instead take our challenge.

This month embrace the #takeitup mindset, and feel the best you’ve ever felt.

Kicking off on Monday 5th we've got 26 ways for you to invest in yourself. That's one thing every day for the whole month that will get you back on track and feeling stronger and healthier than ever. 

So, make September the month you...

1. EMBRACE JOMO

Take up the Joy Of Missing Out. Miley Cyrus and Chrissy Teigen made it famous by swerving the VMAs for yoga and Subway; Women's Health coined it.

There's nothing wrong with turning down invites. Try it, you might just like it.

2. UPDATE YOUR RUN

Whether you've signed up for an autumn race or are crossing your fingers for a London ballot place, this is the perfect time to get your running back on track.

If you need a little encouragement or want to set yourself a training plan the N+RC app has had a serious update.

The newest features include the ability to personalise your schedule, share your goals and compete with other users - that definitely warrants a new pair of trainers!

3. FINISH ON TIME

Step away from your desk. You may think that late-night working is winning you kudos with the boss (if they’re still there to witness it!) but your health isn’t giving you high-fives.

Eating within two hours of going to bed has been linked to high blood pressure and could actually be worse for your heart than a high-salt diet. A flawless argument for working 9 to 5.

4. TURN BACK THE CLOCK

With all that extra time after dinner you’ll be able to get serious about anti-aging.

Origins are getting anxious about your skin's #QuarterLifeCrises, but don’t rush to your panic stations just yet. The new Original Skin Essence Lotion (£22) is designed to fight the early signs of ageing. Phew!

5. CURB THE CAFFEINE

Although going back to work after a long summer of park workouts and Sunday avo brunches feels like a slog, caffeine is not the answer! Swap your flat white for a drink sans cortisol hit.

If you've reached peak matcha try the T+ Smarter Tea (£3.69); it's packed with antioxidants, essential vitamins and powerful botanicals. 

6. HEAD TO THE BARRE 

Barrecore launch their new killer muscle toning Sculpte classes this month. If you thought their signature class was tough, try adding a resistance band... This class is perfect for anyone who finds the regular class a bit slow.

7. GET FED BY THE MED

Long summer evenings have faded so inject sun back into your day with Mediterranean food. A new study found that the kilos vegetables, fish, nuts and healthy oils in this diet can lower your cholesterol and combat heart disease too. 

Check out our top Mediterranean recipes.

8. OUT RUN SEPTEMBER

Pound the pavements whilst doing your bit by taking part in Macmillan’s OutRunSeptember. 

Whatever your ability, set yourself a goal and get going. With a range of mileage targets to beat, you can lose pounds and raise money for charity all at the same time.

9. MEET FACE TO FACE

We’re all guilty of painfully misinterpreting emails and texts once in a while, be it an ambiguous wink-face emoji or a misunderstood sarcastic comment. However a recent study by The International Communication Association found that unfortunately no matter how well you think you know someone, you’re no better at figuring out what on earth their message means by staring at the screen. 

So do yourself a favour, lay down your iPhones, and talk face-to-face. Skintime is in. 

10. MAKE WAY FOR WHEY

Not sure whether all the articles on protein are really milking the benefits? Let the ‘Whey Box’ - think Graze but for protein-  inform your judgment. 

Sign up to receive a monthly haul of whey sachets perfect. They're perfect for keeping in your gym bag.

11. TAKE A LEAP INTO THE UNKNOWN

End of summer blues? Add bounce to your workout by signing up to take part in Gravity Force’s Jump Revolution classes.

Their one-hour high intensity, low impact fitness class burns through fat, while building, toning and defining muscle. Jump on it. 

12. SWITCH THE TEQUILA FOR TUMERIC

Launching this month, James White Drinks’ Turmeric juice Zinger shot won't get you fired if you knock it back at your desk. However it will ignite your metabolism. 

Containing freshly pressed Turmeric juice, apple, lemon, pepper and chili it ticks the anti-inflammatory boxes plus helps promoted glowy skin and boosted brain power. We’ll take that over a hangover any day.

13. DITCH THE TUBE AND DON THE TRAINERS

TFL has launched a new tube map complete with info on how many steps there are between stations.

Their new map revealed that there are only a meager 400 steps between Covent Garden and Leicester Square so there really is no excuse for not hopping off one stop early.

Check out our London Tube Workout

14. SWAP PAINKILLERS FOR YOGA

September is pain awareness month, but don't reach for the medicine cabinet just yet. A study out this week by the National Center for Complimentary and Integrative Health concluded that as well as being all round amazing, yoga can relieve pain too.

Luckily Jessica Skye has got your back (ache), she’s just launched a new YouTube channel full of her yoga wisdom.

15.  INVEST IN GYM UNDERWEAR

All knickers are not created equal and while your lacy numbers may give you a boost on a night out, they're not the ones for the squat rack.

Grab yourself a pair of Bjon Borg's new wicking Hydro-Pro and dodge that sweaty crotch situation...

16.  CATCH THE LAST WAVE.

This month, check out our guide to surf retreats and book yourself a last minute get away. The clever guys at Harvard found that you only need six days in the sunshine to enjoy the a vitamin D high for one month after. 

17. GET THE DOWN LOW ON YOUR DOWN LOW.

Research by the Eve Appeal Charity found that nearly half of British women were not able to label a basic diagram of a vagina.

Get yourself out of that 50% ASAP by checking out our cheeky Guide to Lady Gardens.

18. TAKE THE PLUNGE

Whether you're starting your fitness journey or want to switch up your usual routine, there are a range of aqua sports that you may want to embark on.

If you’re not a fan of the water, fear not, there are also options that don’t actually involve getting wet (unless you fall in of course).

Aqua pilates is a great way to take the plunge. Alternatively, opt for Aqua spinning - swim caps not mandatory.

19. TAKE SOME ALONE TIME

Studies show that many of us struggle to be on our own, but the benefits are out there for all to hear. Recent research concluded that we're able to concentrate more and be more productive after spending time by ourselves. 

Why not schedule in a session of solitude, or simply take half an hour to sit in the park before using the other half of your lunch hour to accomplish some much needed adult admin.

If you're in need of some mindfulness inspo checkout WH's new Strong Mind section; the new issue's out on Wednesday September 7th.

20. BREATHE YOURSELF BETTER

Tracking physical activity is second nature to most of us – but now you can track your mental wellbeing too.

By closely monitoring breathing patterns, the Spire wearable and app (£119.95) flags up tension and attention span so you can make sure your head’s on the right track too.

It's available exclusively from Apple Stores across US and Europe and online at Apple.com and Spire.io, and Amazon.com.

21. UNLEASH YOUR WILD SIDE

Lifting heavy is the key to keeping fit, strong and lean, but repeating the same planes of movement like deadlifts and bicep curls neglects other muscle groups, which could eventually result in an injury.

Trainer Nathan Helberg has decided to fight back with an animalistic take on getting stronger with the Iron ZUU class available at Virgin Active Clubs across the country.

Alongside some pretty intense intervals with weights you will crawl, waddle and slither your way round the room to challenge joints and muscles in ways you probably haven’t done previously.

“The idea is to strengthen your body from all angles so nothing will phase your body,” says Helberg. 

The result? A stronger, more flexible and less-injury prone bod.

22. HIT SNOOZE ON AGEING

Your eight hours a night might be ageing your face.

A new study published in the Aesthetic Surgery Journal revealed that the forces applied to your face by your pillow can lead to the development of 'sleep wrinkles'.

The main offenders? Side and stomach sleeping. While we can't change our unconscious habits you can try the Iluminage Beauty Skin Rejuvenating Pillowcase, £50.

Made from cosy satin infused with copper oxide, which is able to penetrate skin, increase cell turnover and is clinically proven to decrease lines in four weeks. 

23. SLEEP WELL

If you struggle to drop off then you could reach for a mug or Horlicks and the shipping forecast.

Alternatively try Introducing the Sleep Induction Mat by Bulletproof, £39.95. Used 15-40 minute before bed it draws on the principles of acupressure principles, it’s designed to target trigger points to stimulate faster, deeper sleep.

24. WEAR IT WELL

Frame has bent over backwards for fitness this month. Already, they've opened a dedicated yoga studio in King’s Cross, plus launched a new clothing range designed by Frame founder Pip Black and Joan Murphy.

Fusing technical fabric with fashion-forward and functional silhouettes, the collection can we worn to anything from HIIT class, to ‘at-home’ yoga to a trip to Homebase (yeah we all have to sometimes) #athleisure.

25. GET UP, STAND UP

Go back to work with some positive thinking and some positive posture. Swap your desk for a sit-stand option and feel the benefits of faster reaction times, a longer attention span and a perception of a lighter workload.

It's known as one of five simple ways to make your 9-5 healthier.

26. BUY A BLANKET

...and sleep naked. As the temperatures start to drop, add another layer to your bedding rather than your bed-clothes. New science has found that it may be the cure to insomnia. 

The Perils of Part time.

Returning from a 3 week European adventure with two of my best friends I am quite sure that I have in fact found myself. I can’t be 100% sure but I think that ‘myself’ was hiding somewhere between the 3^rd and 4^th bar on one particular night out in Prague. This is it, I am now enlightened to the wonders of the world, I have climbed castles, jumped in lakes and have flirted (badly) with a blonde Danish medical student. However, on following a screaming toddler down some Ryanair steps I suddenly become very aware of the lack of lakes, castles and more importantly, tall scanenavian boys present at East Midlands airport, or in fact in the wider East Midlands area.

My phone buzzes in my hand I am quite sure it will be aforementioned boy demanding I fly straight out to Denmark to meet his family and announce our upcoming engagement…it isn’t. It’s my boss reminding me I am working the next day and the 6 days following it.  Although I hate to admit it an ember of relief flickers inside me, having taken my credit card on my travels with me it’s impending statement was weighing heavy on my mind.

I’ve worked part time as a waitress since I was 15, only stopping briefly when my boss realized I wasn’t strictly supposed to be working at 15 (I returned a fortnight later with strict instructions to ‘distract with the specials menu’ if the topic of my age was ever brought up). I can’t say I’ve loved every moment of it, flashbacks to swearing chefs and flying petite pois send shivers up my spine. However, I am so grateful that my 15-year-old desire to make the transition from New Look to Topshop was great enough to pursue a part time job and it’s minimum wage.

I’m very aware that my job as a waitress was relatively cushy compared to many teen’s first time jobs, however a job is a job and, at times, balancing 12 hour working weekends and 12 GCSEs wasn’t easy. The experience taught me about sacrifice and balance. Sometimes I got that balance woefully wrong, something multiple hung-over Sunday lunch shifts made me all too aware of. It also taught me how respect and kindness towards colleagues of all ages and from all walks of life can open up a world of friendships that go way beyond shared loathing of certain customers.

Most of all though, my experiences as a waitress have taught me the value of hard work, and the rewards it can bestow. Be that a cold glass of rosé after a long shift, a new pair of joni jeans or an extra five pounds from a couple thrilled to hear of your successful A Level results. Wherever my career takes me in the future I will take with me the lessons learned from seemingly never ending Friday nights and will take heart from the belief that nothing is ever as bad as dropping a steak and ale pie in someone’s lap.

Iz xxx

The Courier- The Art of Instablogging

This article was originally published in The Courier

Instagram: @wearetothe9s

It’s hard to believe that once upon a time the preened and perfected images of mouth-watering brunches and mesmerizing shoes were reserved exclusively for the glossy pages of monthly mags. These days one swipe of a thumb can gain you access to a world of millions of photos, edited and hashtagged to perfection.  The astronomical rise of ‘instablogging’ has opened up an entire new art form in the shape of chic flatlays and #ootds, with many forging entire careers from their lucrative 640px by 640px squares.

For those fashion blogger trailblazers of the noughties, the key to a successful blog was the written content; regular lengthy blog posts teamed with blogger pal collabs was the simple, if somewhat arduous, recipe for success. However, in more recent years, it has been the maintenance of social media such as twitter and Instagram that has secured blog longevity. The pull of Instagram is that it allows the blogger to rapidly communicate a theme or identity in a user friendly way. Its fast paced, visual nature has led to a natural relationship with the fashion industry, with brands cashing in on every consumer’s click, swipe and double tap. However, those with the real selling power are the Instagram blogger elites, many of whom work with brands, subtly promoting their products in an aesthetically pleasing way. Brand deals can be big business, and evidence of this is the range of agency’s that have been set up in recent years such as Snapfluence and InstaBrand which work exclusively with savvy social media users and companies.  In fact, depending on the number of followers it is possible to be earning a six-figure salary from instablogging alone.

So, how do you upgrade your blurry Digi Monday pics to money spinning snaps? One major aspect is deciding a ‘theme’ for your Instagram and sticking to it like glue. Many successful bloggers follow very rigid colour schemes that allow their photos to be instantly recognizable when scrolling through a feed of endless avocados and manicures. The blogging pair Ricci Pamintuan and Cassie Masangkay (otherwise knows as ‘ToThe9s’) have racked up nearly 50k followers on their Instagram which features sleek, heavily monochromic fashion snaps. They recently posted a video on their equally popular YouTube channel giving viewers an insight into how they edit their photos. Unsurprisingly, they gave the standard ‘Sierra’ and ‘slumber’ filters a miss, opting instead for higher quality DSLR photos teamed with a multitude of editing apps from VSCO to Afterlight and ‘wordswag’ (yes its actually an app).

If spending hours altering light and contrast isn’t your idea of fun however, don’t fear. Ultimately Instagram is just another way of expressing who you are- so if Netflix binging and cheesy chips are more your kind of style than Nobu sushi and yoga sessions then let that shine- as that ancient proverb once said ‘if in doubt, black and white it out’.

The Courier- The Great Debate: the 'plus-size' concept

This article was originally published in The Courier

The ‘plus size’ debate is one that has raged on for many years now, with people both from inside and out the fashion industry voicing their opinions on the controversial labelling of models who don’t fit runway norms. In recent weeks there has been a flurry of discussion prompted by Amy Schumer who very publically vented her anger at being included in a special ‘Chic at any Size’ Glamour issue. The magazine listed Schumer along side the likes of Adele, Ashley Graham and Melissa McCarthy- labeling them all as ‘inspirations’. Although this special edition could be perceived as a big step forward for the future of so-called ‘plus sized’ fashion, it was Schumer’s backlash that caught the attention of many. Schumer although praising the issue, argued that at a size 10-12, she is not representative of a plus sized woman and thus should never have been included on the issue’s cover. While Amy may have been correct in not identifying herself as plus size (most UK plus-size brands offer clothes ranging in sizes 14- 26), people were angry at how keen she had been to dissociate herself from the issue, and more importantly, the term ‘plus size’.

For some the expression ‘plus sized’ is a fairly modern phenomenon, however for the past decade major brands have been catering for women of all proportions. Evans a UK plus sized retailer began trading in 1930- at that time referring to its range as ‘clothes for stout women’. The industry has come along way since then, with plus size hitting the mainstream when magazines such as Elle, Cosmopolitan and Sports Illustrated featured Ashley Graham, who is a US size 16, as their cover star. Graham herself however, has issues with the term. In a TED talk last year she noted that with the US fashion industry’s current definition of ‘plus sized’ currently being sizes 8-16 (UK 12-20), most of the audience would not be viewed as a ‘normal’ size. This argument is further evidenced by the fact that the average UK dress size is a 16. Should then, the runway models we see in Paris, London, New York and Milan who are sizes 6-8 be labeled as ‘minus sized’? 

The issue at its core does not necessarily lie within who is or isn’t plus sized, or what in fact defines plus sized, but in the need for society to label and segregate these women to begin with. As Graham said, she does not view herself as ‘plus sized’ but just ‘her size’- whatever that may be. A report into attitudes towards beauty carried out by Dove found that only 2% of women perceived themselves to be beautiful- could this perhaps be linked to the belief that the average woman, in fashion terms, is not ‘normal’? Defining people based on their weight and height is objectifying and damaging, and only encourages the pressures placed on girls to strive for, what many believe to be, the unachievable perfect. 

Arguments over lack of diversity in the fashion industry are by no mean a recent development, and the problem is unlikely to go away overnight. Perhaps for now, we should celebrate the progress that has been made in celebrating women of all shapes and sizes, and try to further this success by altering our own attitudes and perceptions when defining the ‘new norm’.